In late January, Greg Rowan, one of our creative directors, and I rented an motor home and headed down the coast to hopefully luck into some of the amazing swell that El Niño has been providing us this winter. We wanted to get out of these winter conditions up in San Francisco, where you have to be very particular about where you paddle out so you don’t get your ass handed to you. The waves up north are rugged and ask that you always be on top of your game. So we headed south to Santa Barbara to a point break that only breaks when the swell is big and perfect. We parked our moho right on the point and woke up to perfect, sunny, point break conditions. We weren’t the only ones. About 50 other surfers had made the same call. Some professional surfers who could really rip. Doh!
And, so, the jockeying for position began, where you test your limits against those around you. You ask for permission through your abilities, and you provide yourself with permission because of your confidence. Or you go look for other spots to surf where there is less humanity and you can just surf the waves that come to you in a more Zen manner.
We’re thinking that Teak’s next office build-out could be a 25’ motorhome. An office on wheels that takes you to a space where you can be relaxed and Zen. A space where ideas flow like the world and surf around you.
— Martinez